Images_Digital_Edition_September_2019

www.images-magazine.com SEPTEMBER 2019 images 25 INDUSTRY NEWS The benefits of on-demand dyeing are easy to imagine; last-minute, just- on-time thread stock is a compelling benefit, though I find adding custom gradients and spans of colour more intriguing, as it could make difficult processes like blending trivial. Without a public price for equipment and materials, it’s hard to gauge the value. A shop may well be able to sell added versatility as a higher- value service, meaning limiting the comparison to replacing thread in standard embroidery is not the only or best way to evaluate ROI. I find the potential cost less daunting as Twine’s pre-dyeing and winding means that one unit can supply a multi-head machine – providing a job allows the lead time to dye a ‘set’ of cones – moving it from just a small-run, high customisation tool to something that makes more sense, in my mind, for medium-sized shops to use in production. I still have some technical concerns concerning custom dyeing: establishing precise start and stop for a gradient or colour seems like it would require some precision from operators, and in the all-too-common instance of thread breakage, using precision lengths of a single colour seems problematic and smooth gradients could be interrupted. I am heartened to see integration with digitising software directly, though I would love an industry standard for this sort of coloration that all software can address when and if these systems become commonplace. The Twine system won’t do away with all thread stock, particularly for users of speciality threads, such as metallics; however, using its app for calibrated colour matches for corporate work and costuming, and fast prototyping for sample rooms, makes it very interesting beyond its creative potential. Erich Campbell The expert’s view Images’ embroidery columnist, Erich Campbell, shares his initial assessment of the new Twine system of design software for the sewing and knitting of garments, making our system very versatile within the whole textile industry. Why is dyeing better than simply switching between different coloured threads as usual? The first immediate benefit is that embroiderers no longer have to stock coloured thread, and are no longer dependent on their thread supplier. Today, as a result of large minimum orders, over 60% of thread inventory is dead stock – stock that will be disposed of. Instead, we say that it’s better to stock only white thread, then produce only what you need. As an added benefit, embroiderers are no longer restricted in colour. They can accurately choose the colour digitally, according to their customers’ requirements, and just dye their thread ready for production. They can have multiple colours as well as colour gradients on a single thread, which can only be achieved digitally, offering much more creativity to their customers. In addition, our system is sustainable. There’s no water consumed and no dead stock, which is better for the environment. Can you quantify the savings when using Twine’s system, compared to using traditional embroidery thread? The time and cost saving is linked to inventory management and logistics of the thread. We know that there are many hidden costs there, not just with the dead stock, but even in the time embroiderers spend looking through their inventory to choose suitable colours for jobs, often compromising on the colours that they choose. With Twine’s system, embroiderers won’t need to manage and wait for thread orders from suppliers. In the case of multiple colours and gradients on a single thread, it just simply isn’t possible to do this traditionally so we can’t compare. How much does the Twine system cost? Generally the ROI for the system is around a year, depending on the customer profile. We don’t share the cost publicly, but will give more details to potential customers who approach us or our distributors. Is the Twine system available in the UK? Yes, it’s available for UK orders. Anyone who is interested is welcome to approach us directly via info@twine-s.com www.twine-s.com Twine’s response Our pricing and ROI information relate to everything around the cost of thread management. Not just replacing coloured stock (not including metallic and special threads) but the hidden costs of even the time taken in choosing colours from the stock. Being digital, the Twine system can repeat colours accurately: a red you dye today can be reproduced a year later for a similar job, so you don’t need to stock that thread for a year, and manage it, and look for it, etc. When you take into account the hidden costs and compare thread dyed by Twine with off-the-shelf thread, the total cost of ownership of the thread with Twine is less. It’s true that precision colour changes are difficult with embroidery, due to tensioning, fabric types, thread types etc. From our experience we can achieve embroideries with gradients quite accurately, so that you achieve embroideries as per the design in many cases. Our partnership with Pulse is exciting and important, and is only the beginning. It showcases our ability to interface with all types of design software. So we agree with the comment about making it an industry standard, and we intend that Twine will be. Concerning specialised thread, we are in the process of working on those. At this point we have developed fluorescent thread and have done preliminary research into reflective and hydrophobic threads. These effects can be added as part of the dyeing process immediately.