Images_Digital_Edition_November_2019

KB TIPS & TECHNIQUES www.images-magazine.com 34 images NOVEMBER 2019 T he most essential part of embroidery isn’t hard to guess: it has to be the thread. That said, even without bringing in speciality threads with fanciful colourations, metallic films, or fuzzy textures, there’s still more to learn about basic embroidery thread than you might think. For that reason, it’s worth looking at the most common threads seen in every embroidery shop, considering the pros and cons of the most-used fibres, and reviewing the best way to care for your collection. Weighing the options Almost every commercial embroiderer will do the bulk of their work using the same standard thickness of thread: 40wt. The combination of 40wt thread and the 75/11 needle can accomplish almost any logo design and render everything from the largest banner to text measuring just under 5mm in height with great regularity. Available in a dizzying array of colours, 40wt thread is a given in any shop. That said, the fibre you select for your standard stock can vastly alter the way it performs for your customers. An embroiderer’s most critical choice at this stage is between rayon and polyester. The importance of fibre Rayon threads are classic, providing an excellent sheen and running at slightly lighter tensions than you use for polyester thread. This makes rayon threads a favourite for those doing home-décor and fashion work. Polyester, despite being more elastic and prone to pulling than rayon, boasts excellent colourfastness and can even resist chlorine bleach and industrial laundering, as well as having a higher resistance to abrasion and snagging. With more thread companies achieving higher lustre finishes on polyester, the fibre you choose will Erich Campbell explains why it’s important to curate your thread stock and handle it with care largely be determined by the context of the end user. If your customer base includes workers in foodservice, medicine, or trades, or you expect to handle a great deal of sports kit, you need the durability and ease of washing that comes with polyester. If your end user expects to launder pieces with some delicacy and/or your products are not intended for washing, rayon’s lustre and less-tense stitching may be to your advantage. For my shops, polyester prevailed as the primary fibre, although we carried rayon stock for specific applications. Caring for your cones Some embroiderers make their choice of fibre based on thread breakage. The durability of polyester can make it less vulnerable to snapping due to nicks and snags in the thread path, however most embroiderers I’ve helped with chronic thread breaks actually had problems with the age and condition of their thread more than their choice of thread. This often had to do with The common thread It’s important to take good care of your cones to help minimise thread breaks