ImagesMagUK_September_2021

satin borders. A narrow stitch is covered by a slightly wider stitch, which is then covered by a slightly wider stitch, allowing the thread to build up the dimension without the use of 3D foam. If you crave texture more than dimension, you could opt to use speciality stitch types that recreate the look of the overlock edge instead. Although they are usually used together with a cut edge or soluble substrate to make patches, these digitised and embroidered borders can be stitched through a garment either as part of a typical embroidered logo or as an appliqué coverstitch. Custom motifs are often used, but edge stitching created using embroidery software offers a dynamically generated version that more easily describes complex shapes and offers fine control over scale. Some customers, however, are actively looking for the ‘loose’ or ‘lifted’ edge of the physical patch above the stitched- edge quality. For those customers, use a pre-cut appliqué made of material that won’t fray, like felt or faux leather, with an inset straight or bean stitch tackdown line to leave that loose edge raised from the garment or accessory on which it is attached, creating the stitched-down look without separately decorating the central design material of the ‘patch’ area. Material Patches are often constructed from a material substrate; for most commercial patches, this is a polyester twill material with a fine texture and somewhat angular grain. Fortunately, this material is readily available and is frequently used for appliqué designs. With the proper edge quality and design cues, you can use a standard appliqué technique to emulate patch styles. That said, some customers don’t like the sheen or texture of the patch material and want the look of a standard fill stitch. In this case you can use either partial or full embroidery coverage in spite of the colour and complete coverage offered by the twill. For this approach, you can reduce the density, stitch count, and stiffness of the decoration by using appliqué but stitching a half (or less) density fill in the same colour over it to create the texture. The common ‘light fill over twill’ style seen in many emblems is actually a fantastic way to save stitches while maintaining sheen and embroidered texture in any appliqué meant to stand in for a fully embroidered fill; it’s well worth examining and may be included in your existing patch toolkit. Shape and layout Irrespective of the edge and material styles you choose to use, even a standard flat-fill design with an unaltered satin- stitch border can evoke patches by using traditional patch shapes and layouts. Pairing a contrasting colour-filled background and border already adds that sense of the physical patch object, but when done in a classic patch shape and supported by ‘rockers’ or ‘tabs’, even a standard embroidery design can take on the look of a real emblem. A simple search for the patch style you want to emulate, be it something from militaria, blazer badges, sports teams, or motorcycle clubs, will give you clues as to the traditional shapes you can use to create your design. Moreover, you can use the stock patch edge designs available from digitisers and software collections – many of these collections are filled with edge contours and design templates drawn from the aforementioned categories. By using your own design assets and the supplied text fields and templates, you can render any design material that fits the decoration area in the style of a classic patch set. Coordinated patch-and-rocker sets can be stitched in a single hooping for the look of multiple applied patches in a single traditionally embroidered decoration. Using typefaces that evoke traditional emblem styles, laid out in the fashion of classic uniform patches, will add to the impression of a commercially produced emblem. Again, a simple search for patch collection websites can help to refine your ideas in the design phase or help you select the correct assets from your software’s stock patch and typeface collection. Unique designs Any of the methods mentioned can be combined to create a patch design: from a fully embroidered design that simply Though more precise positioning is required when using a pre-printed appliqué, this cap shows how a 3D foam border can give you the thick edge quality many see as one of the critical style features of patch-based decoration With the use of stock borders, any suitably sized embroidery design can be inserted into a classic patch shape that evokes real-life examples of emblems. From classic shield and shoulder patches to rockers and tabs, these shapes evoke the patch style, especially when paired with a faux-Merrow stitch type Image courtesy of the author/ Embrilliance www.images-magazine.com SEPTEMBER 2021 images 75 KB TIPS & TECHNIQUES