ImagesMagUK_October_2020

Copy this shape and paste it directly above the first, changing the angle of the fill to 135°. Remove any underlay on this shape, and set its start point near the end point of the previous shape, moving the end point of this new shape to the opposite corner. This completes the light mesh fill. This stable fill is less dense than the automated unidirectional underlay mentioned earlier, and much less dense than a full fill. It has no directional grain into which detail stitches of the same angle can sink, and the mesh structure is lace-like, providing a stable and smooth surface. Top tips for stitching knits With your design adjusted or supported by an underlay, you need only take a few things into account in the embroidery process to keep knits in check. Stabilise securely Knits are an inherently unstable material due to their extreme stretch. Stabilisation is key to maintaining registration in your designs. For any complicated design with outlining of objects or designs with disconnected elements that need to hang together, cut-away stabilisers are usually the best option to prevent distortion. For lighter materials and to improve the hand, consider using performancewear stabilisers like a no- show polyester mesh. These stabilisers give permanent support while reducing the chance they will be seen through the garment. Cover the top Use a water- or heat- soluble film topping to support the stitching temporarily while you stitch, particularly when you are stitching unsupported designs, even satin stitch letters/monograms. These materials can help keep thread from ‘falling in’ to a knit, allowing the underlay and top stitching to be securely formed before it is removed. With a global underlay, however, you will usually find that this is unnecessary. Stretch smart When hooping knits meant to be worn tight to the body or head in a stretched fashion, pre-stretch I created this solidly filled shield for REWMaterials. Designs like this are simpler to run on knit caps without much adjustment. This piece was easily made ready for these textures by compensating the outer border and adding some structural underlay to the most contrasting fill colours. This knit hat featuring a design I created based on vintage hand-lettered text (using the font-master Chank Diesel) is both unsupported and features a light mesh fill used as a design element. Though it holds down the knit fairly well, the thinness of the outer outlines, despite having added additional pull compensation, leads to the design being slightly outcompeted by the thick knit. Though it is successful enough to stand on its own, a patch might work better here The light mesh underlay keeps thin lettering and the edges of satin stitches looking crisp and above the surface of even a heavy knit. Although you can clearly see the grid when up close, from any regular viewing distance this light and efficient mesh almost disappears the garment to the rough amount of stretch it will see when worn. The area of the embroidery will be physically held at the level of stretch you exert on the fabric during hooping; avoid overstretching or understretching if you want the knit to stay smooth and without puckers or ripples when worn. Patch it up For the most difficult knits, consider using patches or appliqués to carry the design. Whether you choose to create a fully-edged patch or stitch your design on an appliqué and affix it with a fully covered edge, your final piece will benefit from the smooth, secure fabric used in appliqué as well as the reduced distortion and compression of the knit that results naturally from using direct embroidery. In conclusion... For stress-free knitwear embroidery, you need only keep a few basic concepts in mind: control the stretch, support the top-stitching, and tackle the texture. For the best results, combine a design made to flatter (and flatten) the garment with materials that ease the stitching process and permanently support the decoration. Remember these few considerations and you’ll make knits both a canvas for your creativity and a profitable product. KB TIPS & TECHNIQUES www.images-magazine.com 36 images OCTOBER 2020 Erich Campbell is an award-winning digitiser, embroidery columnist and educator, with more than 20 years’ experience both in production and the management of ecommerce properties. He is the programme manager for the commercial division of BriTon Leap. www.erichcampbell.com