ImagesMagUK_February_2021

Embroidery by Stocks Industrial Embroidery Solutions According to Andrew Stocks, director at Stocks Industrial Embroidery Solutions, a great way to start embroidery on softshell jackets is to use a Towa digital bobbin and thread regulator. "This device will allow you to set both the lower bobbin and the top thread tension of your manufacturer's given specification." Next up is the choice of stabiliser. "On this occasion we would suggest TC-50 cut-away backing due to the stable and fine construction of the backing, which will reduce puckering on the softshell material, but not appear bulky behind afterwards," explains Andrew. "TC-50 is a fine, opaque backing with multi- directional properties that allow double strength when cross laying the weave of two pieces." Both the needle point and the needle size play an important role when embroidering softshell jackets. In the Groz Beckert range in the needle system DB X K5, which Andrew says is used in most industrial embroidery machines, there is the normal round point (R), used for the embroidery of textiles, leather, artificial leather and coated textiles; the round point with small ball point (RG), which is a universal point used for the embroidery of knitted and textile material such as microfibre; the light ball point (FFG), for the embroidery of knitted fabrics; and the medium ball point (FG), for the embroidery of elastic or coarsely meshed sewing fabric and tulle (different manufacturers may use different point codes). There are two that stand out for softshell, he notes: the normal point R, which is the standard point form and has a slim, conical shape with no point supplement, and the light ball point FFG, which displaces woven and knitted threads, directly piercing the spaces and avoiding damage to the material. "We would recommend testing the two on the garment and see which gives the optimum performance as this can all be one big recipe, including factors from the design, the fabric, the needle and the thread," says Andrew. The final hurdle is the framing of the garment. "If you hoop the garment too tight, you will bruise and mark the fabric. Hooping too slack will result in fabric movement and stitch displacement." Andrew recommends the HoopMaster Mighty Hoops, a strong magnetic hoop that he says can be used on almost any embroidery machine. "There is no need to adjust the outer ring of the hoop because it holds the garment with magnetic force, and automatically adjusts for different thicknesses." He concludes: "To summarise, we advise users to check the tensions on the machine, use the correct stabiliser for your garment, select the best needle for the garment, frame the garment correctly with the correct tension, and always run a test first." www.stocks.co.uk TIPS & TECHNIQUES www.images-magazine.com 58 images FEBRUARY 2021 STEP-BY-STEP: EMBROIDERING A SOFTSHELL Put the jacket over the board and fixture, leaving the plastic arms out Put the back of the HoopMaster magnetic frame in the fixture. Lay the sheets of TC50 cut-away backing in position, covering the back of the frame Start the embroidery – remember to use either an R or FFG needle with softshell fabric Load the frame onto the embroidery machine. Stocks used a ZSK machine in this step-by-step Position the magnetic frame on top of the plastic arms and then press down to 'attract' the back of the frame. The hoop is now in position The embroidered Gildan jacket 2 1 5 4 3 6