ImagesMagUK_December_2021

Execution tips Fight the friction Keep your thread path clean and clear so as to avoid the thread binding and rubbing in the path. Use a new needle with a larger elongated eye, or one size up from the recommended size if stitching with any of the thicker metallics, provided your design’s smallest details will allow this. You may find that lubricating your needle or thread with a non-staining silicone specially made for the task may also help keep fraying at bay. Pay close attention to your thread manufacturer’s recommended needle sizes. Tightly control tension The rougher texture and thus extra friction natural to metallics may mean you need to loosen your upper tension. Couple that with the tendency of some metallics to stretch and spring back while running, and you’ll see that managing tension is key. Whereas the conventional settings for polyester thread require between 120 and 150 grams of force, classic metallics are recommended to run at a reduced 80-100 grams of top tension, with the bottom tension set similarly to that used for cap embroidery. Whether you use gauges or a simple satin stitch test (the back of your satin stitches should show roughly 1/3 top thread, 1/3 bobbin, and 1/3 top thread), it’s critical to make sure your tension is properly adjusted. Combat kinks Some metallic thread can kink or twist on itself, creating loops and bends that are sure to tangle or break when they hit tight spots in the thread path. Every embroiderer seems to have their own way to combat this, from lengthening the distance between spool and machine with external cone holders, hanging a heavy paperclip or other weight from the thread between two points in the thread tree, using thread nets that force the thread to slide off the cone evenly, or even to passing the thread through a Styrofoam packing peanut before threading. The theory behind all of these techniques is to physically prevent the thread from twisting on itself and straighten out any kinks before they reach the machine. Just remember to take into account and adjust for any extra tension added by these remedies before you run. Note: With some small, non-cone It’s no secret that the human animal is drawn to the look of glossy, shiny objects Far more than just the classic metal tones, metallic thread is available in a wide range of specialty colours and treatments. This coated metallic in a multi-colour variegated tone is a fantastic example spools of metallic thread, particularly those with larger foil elements, the orientation of your thread holder and guide may contribute to the coiling and kinking of the thread; you may need an external thread holder that allows the spool to rotate and release the thread from the side of the spool rather than pulling it over the end in order to reduce disruptions. Slow your stitching As speed increases, so does tension, stress and rebound. Rolling back your SPM (stitches per minute) can lighten the load on fragile metallics and reduce breakage. One popular brand recommends reducing speeds to 650-750 stitches per minute for ideal results. Explore your options Not all metallics are equal or equally suited for every use. Test different metallic thread brands and constructions to find a fit for your particular combination of equipment, materials and substrates. With the addition of new metallic threads with thinner foil wraps and specialty coatings, you may find that Fully metallic threads aren’t the only option to add a little sparkle to your design, and may not be the simplest. The twisted thread on the right provides a combination of colour and metallic sparkle sure to create interest in any design – just make sure to watch for proper densities and execution. This particular sample is a 30wt thread with a target coverage density of 6 points or 0.6mm, much less than that recommended for standard 40wt threads Metallics are a classic staple of holiday designs, and when I was asked to create a metallic design that wasn’t overly tied to a holiday theme, I created this ‘modern’ take on the Christmas tree. Though successful overall, one can see that the thinner 50wt thread used on this sample may have benefitted from slightly higher densities, though the structural underlay that is visible on close inspection helps to add coverage that makes the looseness in some areas less obvious at a normal viewing distance. Remember, stitch type and parameters can change the look of a metallic greatly – long, aligned, and unbroken satin stitches are shinier than fill stitches, while the varied shadows and highlights of a fill stitch create more small ‘sparkles’ than you would see in the satin stitch. Play with settings and angle to learn more of how light interacts with your design This tiny design of a hand has individually carved fingers and other details, layering satin stitches to create natural shadows and highlights that give the piece a sculptural look. The contrast with the fuzzy background felt pushes the textural interest of the piece KB BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT www.images-magazine.com 68 images DECEMBER 2021