ImagesMagUK_December_2021

Managingmetallics Want to bring a shine to your embroideries? Erich Campbell offers some gold-plated tips to help improve how you digitise and stitch metallic threads M etallic threads may have been around for a long time, but their ability to add a shine that conjures a sense of luxury has kept their popularity at a steady level over the years. Although historically they have been maligned for being more difficult than the usual polyester and rayon threads to stitch, these threads continue to be relevant in every market and nearly every theme. Used in everything from official badges and seals to high-end corporate branding, this classic thread has never been easier to employ. Constructed of a core of polyester or rayon wrapped with metallic and coloured foils or films, these complex threads have, in the past, been prone to breakage, bird-nesting, and tension troubles. Recent improvements in thread technology mean, however, that there are now much better behaved metallics on the market, although they do have a slightly different sheen than the ‘original’ metallic threads. These coated or ‘soft’ metallics can run at higher speeds and frequently require less alteration in your machine’s set-up to run reliably. Metallic threads come in several weights, each requiring different settings in digitising. Much like standard rayon and polyester threads, finer metallics can render smaller text and finer details, while thicker metallics will offer more complete coverage with fewer stitches. That said, much as with standard fibres, there are fewer colour choices in the thick and thin varieties than you will find in the standard 40 weight. Although densities change with thread weight and some metallics run better than others, there are universal tips that if followed can help all metallics stitch more smoothly. Digitising for metallics Eliminate short stitches Metallic threads are often more friable (easier to snap) than their polyester or rayon counterparts. This can mean that as shorter stitches pack together and cause friction or – in extreme cases – allow the needle to hit or cut the end of a previous stitch, the more delicate metallic thread can break. Use lighter densities Even when running metallic threads nominally listed as the same weight as your standard thread, you may want to decrease density by up to 10 percent to account for the extra bulk often present in these foil-wrapped yarns. This helps to prevent excess friction and abrasion. For a 40 weight metallic, aim for a 4.5 point or 0.45mm maximum density. For lighter 50 weight metallics, 4 points or 0.4mm will provide adequate coverage. Thicker metallics are less frequently seen, but density will need to be reduced as threads get thicker; 30 weight metallics, for instance, should target a maximum 5 point or 0.5mm density. No matter what weight thread you are running, always aim for a lighter, more open density with metallic threads. Use structural underlay To account for reduced densities and to help avoid show-through on the outside edges of curved satin columns, it’s advisable to use structural underlay. On satins, edge run or contour underlay stitching can help cover the ground under less dense areas along that edge as well as provide a structural ‘rail’ on which the satin stitches can track. For larger satins, zigzag or double zigzag underlays can uphold topstitching and provide colour coverage without increasing the topstitch packing and density. Manually placed contour-fill columns used as underlay can also serve to further uphold any excessively wide split or length-limit stitched column elements. For filled areas, using a perpendicular, loose fill stitch or a mesh underlay at densities with a spacing of just 2-3mm can provide coverage and lift to topstitching that allows for reduction of density without excess show through. These ‘soft’ metallics can run at higher speeds and require less alteration in your machine’s set-up to run reliably Modern metallics like the one pictured on the right may have a slightly less ‘sparkling’ shine compared to the classic metallic thread on the left, but their ease of running can make a difference in efficiency and run speed. Coated metallics like these require far less alteration of your set-up than metallic threads once demanded www.images-magazine.com DECEMBER 2021 images 67 KB BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT