ImagesMagUK_December_2020
www.images-magazine.com 66 images DECEMBER 2020 TIPS & TECHNIQUES Metal head Dominic Bunce of embroidery digitising specialist David Sharp explains how to use a mix of threads and stitch types to create an embroidered piece of art especially when using metallic threads. Keep the density set to the optimum setting for the material and thread, with minimal underlay applied on stable fabric. This ensures efficient machine production, with no thread breaks – your machine operator will appreciate it being set correctly, as threading metallic thread isn’t always easy! The stitch densities will vary depending on the fabric type. For this design on denim, we used: ■ 100% auto spacing for the metallic satin stitches ■ 0.43mm spacing and a length of 4mm for the metallic tatami fills ■ 2.80mm spacing for the metallic run stitches on a single run With large designs, density and trim settings play an important role – get them right, and it will run through the machine with just the odd bobbin change. Get them wrong, and you will hear your embroiderer pulling their hair out. To keep trims down, it is important to think of the order in which the design will be stitched, linking up as much as possible with small travelling stitches. These can be worked into the design and be covered by an additional layer of stitches, rather than trimming. This helps with machine efficiency and speed of production – just 10 extra trims in a design can cost as much as one minute in production time. It is all in the planning – work out where you want to start and end and work from there, linking up as much as possible to avoid excess trims and colour changes. By keeping it efficient, it will be smooth sailing, resulting in a clean finish that avoids feeling heavy or bulky when the garment is worn. www.davidsharp.co.uk The design used 80,000 stitches on a So Denim by AWDis shirt T his geisha design with a twist was hand-drawn by our in- house artist Sophie before being digitised in Wilcom EmbroideryStudio e4 for an up-and- coming design website. Comprised of 80,000 stitches, it took just under two hours to stitch onto the Lucy Denim Shirt (SD045) from So Denim by AWDis. We used a mix of the Metallic CR 20, Classic 40 Rayon and Frosted Matt 40 threads from Madeira along with a variety of stitch types – satins, tatami fills and single run stitches – for a delicately detailed finish. Madeira Ezee cutaway backing was used to support the design. With metallic thread, satin stitches work very well and give a good ‘raised’ look, while tatami fills and run stitches add to the finish of the design. By using a variety of stitch types, we were able to elevate the design from a flat image to one with definition and texture. Ensuring the correct settings for density is an important factor for any design, The correct density settings are particularly important when using metallic threads Keep trims to a minimum for an efficient design
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