Images_Digital_Edition_July_2019

www.images-magazine.com JULY 2019 images 17 INDUSTRY NEWS Research reveals global garment companies are failing to provide workers with living wage According to a study by researchers at the University of Sheffield, global garment companies are failing to meet living wage promises to their workers. In an investigation by the Sheffield Political Economy Research Institute (SPERI), researchers found that many major corporations do not have firm, measurable action plans in place for achieving a living wage in their global supply chains or benchmarks for calculating living wage rates. SPERI said it would take a “step-change in approach” for global companies to pay wages that “meet the basic needs” of workers and their families. Project leader Professor Genevieve LeBaron, a professor of politics at the University of Sheffield and director of SPERI, said: “There is little evidence that corporate commitments to living wages are translating into meaningful change on the ground. As such, consumers are purchasing products they may believe are made by workers earning a living wage, when in reality, low wages continue to be the status quo across the global garment industry. “A step-change in approach will be necessary for garment companies to achieve living wages in their supply chains. Corporations need to evaluate their sourcing practices and ensure they are paying enough to allow suppliers to pay out living wages. They need to adopt existing benchmarks and living wage calculation methodologies and clearly map out how they will achieve living wages for different tiers of suppliers and by when. “Until companies can take such steps, living wage commitments are likely to remain in the realm of rhetoric rather than leading to substantial changes that address low wages for workers in the global garment supply chain.” Published on 30 May 2019, the SPERI study investigated the commitments and actions of 20 leading garment companies, of which 17 are members of initiatives that acknowledge a commitment to living wages. Only three of these companies – H&M, C&A and G-Star Raw – were found to have a supplier code of conduct that requires workers to be paid wages that meet the Clean Clothes Campaign’s definition of a living wage. www.sheffield.ac.uk Government rejects 1p garment tax The government has rejected a proposal to charge producers 1p per garment to fund better recycling of clothes. The proposal was one of 18 recommendations put forward by the Environmental Audit Committee (EAC) following its Fixing Fashion report that was published in February this year. Other proposals included banning incinerating or landfilling old stock that can be reused or recycled; ensuring UK garment workers are paid the minimum wage in a safe workspace; full traceability in supply chains; a strengthening of the Modern Slavery Act; introducing an Extended Producer Responsibility scheme to reward companies that take positive action to reduce waste; and reducing VAT to those offering repair services. In the government’s response to the recommendations, which it published on 17 June 2019, it said it supports the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP), a voluntary agreement coordinated by WRAP, saying it “is encouraged by the collective efforts made by SCAP members to date”. It also said it would be better to find outlets for waste textiles rather than simply imposing a landfill ban. In response to the recommendations for a minimum wage for UK textile workers, it noted that the government continues to “crack down on employees who ignore the law”. It added: “The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) supports the targeting of resources to tackle non-compliance in the garment business and the sharing of intelligence to tackle exploitation and maximise the impact made by the enforcement bodies. Furthermore, HSE supports the recommendation that textile retailers take action to raise standards within the industry, for example by signing up to Global Framework Agreements, and will continue to work with other regulators to share intelligence and support future initiatives as appropriate.” Mary Creagh MP, chair of the EAC, said: “Ministers have failed to recognise that urgent action must be taken to change the fast fashion business model which produces cheap clothes that cost the earth.” She continued: “The public has a right to know that the clothes they buy are not produced by forced labour, however the government hasn’t accepted our recommendations on the Modern Slavery Act. “The Environmental Audit Committee will be closely monitoring steps that the government claims it is taking to address the problems exposed in our report.” A survey of brands, retailers and suppliers published by Drapers on 7 June revealed that 85% of respondents said the government is not doing enough to help the fashion industry to become more sustainable. three of these companies – H&M, C&A and G-Star Raw – were found to have a supplier code of conduct that requires workers to be paid wages that meet the Clean Clothes Campaign’s definition of a living wage. www.imagesmag.uk/FixingFashion Mary Creagh, chair of the EAC. Credit: UK Parliament Only three out of the 20 leading garment brands investigated were found to have a supplier code of conduct that requires workers to be paid wages which meet the Clean Clothes Campaign’s definition of a living wage